Travelogue

A completely humbling experience has come back to me, from my time in Cambodia with a motorcycle driver named Lucky. I may have mentioned him in conversations I've had with others but never really told his story fully, and with Christmas time walking in the hall way leading to the New Year's opening, I've had thoughts about him.

I was in Phnom Penh when I met him and forged a pretty straight and quick bond with the young man after he had found me a great hostel to stay at and also offered to show me around at a discount price (He got his commissions too from the hostel).

It wasn't really about the money after I showed some faith in him and took an interest in his general life and well-being. This kind of honesty turned into acts of generosity when he persuaded me to go shoot some AK-47 rounds at a shooting range on the outskirts of town but afterwards, and to my general annoyance at first, he wanted to "show sabai sabai time!" somewhere that was miles away from any backpacker radar. I genuinely thought he would take me somewhere I would get beaten up and mugged but instead I misunderstood the whole situation. He introduced me to some of his closest friends who worked at a greasy mechanic's in the middle of nowhere, brought out a large bottle of stomach curdling but throat warming whiskey and we chilled out with a game of footy with the little kids' flattened ball.

Afterwards, when the warm of the day turned into the light breeze induced night, he decided to take me further into his world and we went the short distance into the very few flashes of light that kept the gravelly path alive and turned into a recently furnished set of garages coloured white. When we went in he surprised me. There was a new crowd of people to meet along with the friends that joined us for a spot of cambodian karaoke! It was amazing and heart-warming to know that a nation of such sadness in history could make the most of any given situation and welcome a stranger into their midst with smiles. Lucky's friends were so warm to the stranger and even when I was in the prime of feeling rightly inebriated with the luke-warm beer that was being offered every half an hour, I forgot to take my bag to which one of his friends had run back to me and jostled it onto my back again, with a gentle smile.

A happy guy, with very little to his name. A motorcycle that is his pride and joy. He wore a similar set of clothes each time I saw him but who can judge a man by this? He had a cheeky glint in his eye, mischievious as a kid I was sure of it. His eyes also hid a overwhelming sadness which never over-powered his general demeanour. Charm and confidence was in abundance. His sensitive side only burst out on the last day of Phnom Penh.

"I want to show you my family...where I live" he had said with great pride. I couldn't resist, he had been great to me.

So on the morning of my last day he picked me up early and we set off into yet another area that I was completely unfamiliar with. The day was particularly warm and the sweat was dripping off profusely as even my shades couldn't stop the burning of my eyes coupled with the intense smoky air that was created by the pollution.

It didn't take long to figure out that as he kept driving, the terrain was getting bumpier and the areas were getting progressively poorer. The paraphernalia of political leaders was the only thing that kept constant throughout this trip. We slowed down to an area which seemed to lower towards a swamp-like neighbourhood. He made a few skilful turns to avoid the murky green coloured waters around this tiny set of concrete shacks with tin roofing. I could see children splashing about the dirty waters with their feet tapping away as they run around. I could also see Lucky's face turn around and smile at me as he points out his wife holding his very young child.

The motorcycle is switched off and he beckons me to head around the corner with care as he settles our helmets onto his storage. I go over to his wife and speak to her, she is just as smiley as lucky. She nods down towards her young child and I smile but trying to hide the sadness about her disfigurement with her face. It's something i have come across but you have to hide the sadness as it's just the way life is for some in SE Asia. Lucky made his way to us jumping across some swamp puddle leading to his home.

'This my wife and little girl' he beams with pride. 'They're wonderful' I say. 'Your girl's cute!'.

Nothing was to shock me more than what I was to see next. He asked me to go into his home...and it was indeed tiny. The tin-roofing above was festered with cobwebs and occasional spiders the size of my palm hanging from these. I look to my left and see a concrete bed with a single sheet cover with stains on it. A battery operated mini TV and a sack full of clothes was everything else that was to his name.

I felt sad. It was a really heart-wrenching situation to see but I spoke to him and said 'You're amazing; you’re a really strong guy.'

'Thanks...this my life'. He said with a smile I grew fond of.

Since that day, I've had a better idea of what makes one happy. Sometimes it's the little things that make us happy. Lucky doesn't have much but I was always under the impression that he was content. He loved to joke around and have a laugh. He has his mechanic friends, he makes little children smile whenever he spoke to them and his wife and kid seemed content too when I met them. The swampy squalor couldn't even break their spirits. I've come to the conclusion that we define our own happiness and it's within us to dictate how content we are. It's not about other people, it's about you.

If there was anyway of describing a turnaround for anyone from the shittiest situation you could be in I think I would win from 2 weeks ago! I've always thought I was a positive person and I think what happened to me 2 weeks ago is a situation I'll never forget for the rest of my life. Let me paint the general picture for you......

Well all was rosy when I left Bangkok (I thought so anyway), and had a welcomed 4 hour stop-over in Singapore which was kewl considering I slept the whole flight and needed some food. I had $20 in my pocket at this point which was fine to just buy a few things to keep me going until Perth. So I met this really nice Aussie bloke and he kept me company throughout and we just joked around throughout the trip and everything just being normal.

Arriving in Perth at around 9pm, I was knackered as hell and just wanted to find a hostel so I could shower, have a bit of food and go to bed and explore the delights of Perth the next morning. At this point I realise i'm running a little low on funds, $8 left and so I start to look in my backpack to get my money belt which contains all my cards so I can withdraw some money. Nothing......

Nothing! It's not there......and so begins the nightmare start to probably what would be a great adventure. I've never been so gutted in all my life....how the fuck could I have been so careless to have misplaced/lost my cards. GUTTED. So, basically I'm fucked.....$8 to my name.....I'M FUCKED! That's what most people would say and think. I did for a second but then $8 is better than nothing and it could be much worse!

I asked around for how much it would cost to go to Northbridge and then wasn't hoping for good news anyway and didn't get it. That's out the window. I block the cards first through the bank and that's pretty easy (although took a long chunk of an hour or 2 to do) and then decided best to call home and tell them how much of a retard their son is!!! :s

After the initial bollocking, I decide to try and take matters into my own hands and hitch a lift. I thought this would be a tough task considering this is probably dangerous territory and something i've never done before. At this point (although I knew this already), I thought I was going to love Australia. A really wicked guy called Manjeet and the first person I spoke to about my situation, gave me a lift!!!! He didn't think twice and just told me to wait until his shift at the airport was over and he'd give me a lift to wherever I wanted....wow, faith in the world restored!!!

So I slept at Perth Airport until his shift was over and gave me a lift. He told me he was in a similar situation a couple of years ago and well he felt this was his time to give back! Wow...I'm speechless. He gives me his uneaten dinner and drops me off at the place I want to stay. I'm extremely thankful and then he offers me $20 to survive for the day (which I decline at first but accept after a bit of persuasion) and says that if I can't find anywhere or sort out my situation that I should give him a call and he'll let me stay the week. Wow!.....I'm blown away....I can honestly say I wouldn't expect this from many people in London.

2 weeks later and things are incredibly on the up!! After my legend of a Dad sent some money through till I could receive my emergency card (and my brother was also really helpful too), I was able to get back on my feet!!! Perth is a really amazing place and the people are just as amazing. It's more quiet than most other places in Oz but that suits me fine after the craziness of Asia! I've met some awesome/nuts people in the hostel I'm staying at and I've settled in really well and just basically I'm laughing non-stop!! And also.....women in Perth are " HOT AS!!!" (As Aussies like to say!)...Yes I mean hot as and not hot ass....although both would be appropriate!!

Want to hear the most amazing part? Just a few days ago I was able to help another guy out who was in the same situation as me, just going through a rough patch and needing a bit of help. I lent him a bit of money to stay the night and well he told us all the situation he was in and how he wouldn't get paid until the end of the week and so other people in my hostel have all decided to help him out until he gets paid and can get back to normal ways again! I was also able to pay Manjeet back yesterday and bought him a bottle of wine as a thank you!! (he decided not to take his $20 back....as much as I bugged him about it!)

And to wrap up, today, I just got offered a job and think this is the icing on top of the cake. I thought it was the right time to tell this to you all and hope it might make you think a bit. I HOPE!

Moral of the story? Never underestimate the kindness of people and when the chips are down, eventually things will turn around!!! I'd like to dedicate this to Manjeet...I'd probably be in the shit without him.

.....Oh and I have been out twice....2 fookin awesome nights of major carnage!!! :D

I was looking forward to this one...for personal and emotional reasons....Finally THE MOTHERLAND!

I can say a million things about this place that i've seen and been completely shocked or suprised by. There is no way you can't come back from India and not be taken aback by either of those 2 options! It's a country whereby people make up their own rules.....There aren't even rules to abide by. Corruption, craziness and unpredictability spring to mind among other things....and it just made the experience a bit more worthwhile.

Things didn't start off too well, I have to admit I wasn't enjoying the 5 star hotel status...It bothered me bigtime. When you're travelling you get the feel of a country and you get to know the place through the people...not how we would live back home. I made a slight mistake of thinking I was still backpacking (meant to be a holiday) but at the same time people were making other assumptions....a genuine mismatch.

I decided to make a decision on my own part and join my parents in the village life...back where it all started for them in Gam (Gam means village)! This has been an incredibly interesting and frustrating time on my part. All this time I thought that I had really good Gujarati....and as I write this I've completely realised how wrong I've been about that. In fact my Gujarati is shockingly bad....In England I survive well to the point where relatives compliment me on my verbal skills. I get the same in Gam but it sounds different somehow....like they're not entirely convinced...and not likely to bullshit about it.

Although things didn't work out in the first week or so (for several reasons), I still enjoyed that time. Seeing a tribute to Gandhi in Mumbai (A mini museum) was special....I didn't realise the extent (due to naiveity) to which he has touched so many Indians. A treasure.....The man was a marvel...and someone that people should strive to but unfortunately don't. This world is filled full of greed...Money is seen as power. Seeing that museum completely made Mumbai....along with being around family, something I've missed since being away.

Delhi is completely gorgeous and COLD (at this time of the year)!!!!!!!!!! Jesus that place needs to be hotter even if it is winter! It's full of gorgeous sights...including the final resting place of Gandhi...he made his mark on this country, which extends to being a big influence on how the national flag looks. I sort of wonder what he'd think if he saw India now. Diwani Khas was a sight to behold...I was completely impressed by inside and outside...the detail was awesome!

Agra......Do I even need to spell it out. You've probably even seen my pictures. If you still haven't got the reason why people go to Agra...You frankly need some help! The Taj Mahal has made my year. I didn't even remember such a thing to be as amazing as it was when I first saw it very young....we must have spent around 2 hours there. Taking pictures, sitting down, being told off for leaning against the walls (TWICE for me)! You name it we must have done anything and everything there.

I sat near the west wall of the Mahal for about less than an hour just thinking how lucky I was to be there. How amazing it is to think a husband did it as a gesture for his wife (He's set a benchmark...BASTARD!). None of the other sights really deserve attention after that.

I lasted one day of the tiger safari before I caved in and left for Gam. Weakness? Maybe. Perhaps I'd had enough of being criticised....but for what reason? It's happened and it's in the past now. GAM!!!! What the hell was I letting myself in for???!?! Weeelllllll.....The first thing I remember after my train ride and getting in the back of the van was the smell of crap! The simple country/farmyard life consists of it!

I hadn't seen most of my family from India since 1993, whereby the most I remember is being bollocked by my Mama (Uncle) about chucking my cousin into the cowshed and the other of being sick constantly. Things had changed indeed! What set the tone was the question I knew was on everyone’s lips, and with which both mamas obliged.."Are you ready to get married?"...cheeky buggers!

Village life is pretty different and is probably (or not) how you might expect it. Life for the mamas revolves around keeping the Ketty (farmland) going. My Mamis (aunties) are more worried about how best to feed everyone. Unfortunately, I found the mama's to be a bit frustrating with the way they think. It's all still caveman-style alpha male....which means women come second. But what's funny is my uncles are scared of their wives slightly....to the point where things like eating meat and drinking booze is hidden away in fear they might be caught. HILARIOUS!

I managed to get 2 mini trips going with both uncles (unexpected) and turned out to be great. One of those of whom took me towards the Ellora Caves....these were immense and definitely worthwhile during a trip to india if you're anywhere near the region. I also got to see a rainbow sunset (sky was coloured in tune with the rainbow) at 6.11pm along with Gabrielle's "Dreams" playing on the ipod. My other uncle made things special with sunset point at Mount Abu....spectacular beyond belief! I can honestly say it's something you could save for someone special one day...that amazing!!

I can tell you about another experience I had at a major tourist attraction that had no toilets (It's hilarious, but you probably won't talk to me again, I was desperate!...Just send me a private message if you’re as desperate as I was (to know!))

I also managed to go to an Indian movie (I avoided these sort of things at all cost at home)...I got to admit it was pretty good, although incredibly girly..it was good. I hadn't connected with my roots this way before....it felt strange. Almost as if I was ignorant and learnt my ways....I really have neglected certain things in my life....a certain influence or attitude. Give it a chance and it could change you for the better.

It would finally be wrong of me to not mention the terrorist attacks and how we avoided them by literally days (we were in the Taj the days before it happened..drinking merrily)...It was completely saddening. I couldn't think if I lost my family or friends the way those other people have. But it's made me more greatful to have them still and maybe I have time to put things right that might be wrong.

Argentina vs Brazil. Spanish vs Portuguese. Maradona vs Pele. Beef vs errrr Beef! So many contests/opinions you could name between these two countries, but both equally fiercely competitive within the football stakes in particular. Sport is definitely big in both countries. Actually, that's probably the wrong word...it's as cosmic as religion on both sides. It is so important to most people's lives that you can simply name either of those two famous players from each country and create enthusiastic conversation whereby their eyeballs grow in size and the tail starts to wag.

Although, I didn't get to spend much time in Argentina I noticed quite a few things while I was out there. Argentinians seem like nice, cool and patient people (An Englishman with very little experience with spanish is very testing at times I'm sure). Although, they're very easy to mock when it seems like they feel vulnerable to differences in understanding, as I found the lady at my first hostel to be incredibly helpful for example.... If I need a map next time, I'll just buy one! ;p

Leaving the hostel, I found myself shocked within 30 seconds of exploration. I came across several women, mid 30-40's on the streets, lying down against the shade as their kids were crawling across the pavement, of which, more often than not, you would see dog poo all around. A saddening thing to see and yet you see the extent to which situations are heavily contrasted. The contrast is the sights of Buenos Aires...which selfishly you would forget what you saw 20 minutes ago.

Casa Rosada or "The Pink Palace" was the place where Evita, President Peron's Wife addressed the crowds of BA from the infamous balcony. The goverment buildings along with the theatres and statues of famous social and political figures all made this place very much worth visiting. The contrast of these monumental eye candies compared to the rough, worn down houses and buildings make it a very interesting place to see.

One of the few funny gripes was (and due to the language barrier) the fact that I simply couldn't tell what sort of food I was ordering, which meant playing russian roulette, to which I managed to order a Pizza with no sauce and topped off with grated egg...something that me and my girlfriend think is a criminal thing to do!!!

We managed to meet up with our tour group and visited the Jesuit Missionaires in San Ignacio which was incredibly interesting to learn about how a group of people had been educated into the Roman Catholic religion and essentially "civilised", but without knowing so, were exploited for socia/political reasons. The best part about Argentina though, was the last few days where we were able to visit Iguazu Falls. The rain was blistering down all about the falls but the falls were so gorgeous thta it simply didn't matter what the weather was like. We managed to catch a speed boat to see the falls up close and had the opportunity to get absolutely soaked under the actual falls which was an immense experience. LOVE IT!

The next day was supposed to be the Brazilian side of Iguazu Falls, which shows a different perspective of the falls and hence makes it incredibly worthwhile. I'd love to say I saw it but this simply wasn't the case. I got absolutely wasted on Caiprinhas (Suprise surprise) and made a complete tit out of myself. The consequences of travelling with my girlfriend really hit home and made it all feel a million percent sobering the next day. I wish I could say I remember the night but that again would be a miracle to remember! So kiddies, the message here is Caiprinhas are dangerous and should be drunk (in excess) at your very own peril....don't say I didn't warn you!!!

Although I missed out on the falls, my experience with the drink led the group to let go a little bit more, which I guess, made everyone feel more at ease in a strange way!

I loved the camping throughout. Sitting around on logs, surrounding the blazing heat of the camp fire while there were some Brazilians playing drum-based music was a nice experience. Especially with the stars out in their prime, glinting in the night sky....pure bliss. The only thing that would keep you on edge about camping is using the toilets at the camp sites to which we saw the most hideous looking toilets ever. Now, compared to places in SE Asia and India...I didn't feel so bad going about my business than most...not naming any names!!! ;p

Bonito was a great place to be, especially after frustration had grown over how much we were in the giant sardine tin with wheels for most of the trip so far....complete contrast to my previous backpacking trip whereby I'd spend a bit of time in one place before moving on or deciding to leave early if I felt the need to. The lack of freedom bugged us both at times but a experience is an experience after all.

We managed to undertake some snorkelling in Bonito which was incredibly scary for me seeing as how I am a weak swimmer and the best of time don't enjoy water much! I saw extremely gorgeous fish and sand springs which looked like warp holes, but every so often had to have my arse dragged around by the snorkelling guide due to my fears overtaking every so often, bringing back my childhood nightmares. I've never felt so vulnearble in all my life but I'm so glad I did it. Its the things you do that make you stronger.

Also Brotas, was another friendly small place, where we went camping, tubing and had a halloween party to which I obliged to spike the punch with half a bottle of tequila....somehow everyone didn't seem to feel it the next morning including me so I'll take it as a job well done!

After Brotas, we went to the Pantanal which was absolutely amazing! The Pantanal translated as 'Swamp Land', which although is correct in translation, it should really be known as the 'Wetlands' according to our guide Uli. We went horse riding into the nearby forests and were even allowed to cross a lake to which unbeknownst to us it had lurking in it's depths; baby crocodiles, anacondas and piranhas!!!! We went to a night safari, to which of note, we didn't find many interesting wildlife but were distracted by the gorgeous skies once more shining brightly and clearly in the remotest part of Brazil. It felt amazing being in the middle of nowhere and people not knowing where I could have been at that moment in time. Brilliant! I also undertook piranha fishing (just about!) with a bit of wood and string and four hours later, I still had nada!!!

Paraty was also a great place whereby it was the end of the trip for the group and so a real break from all the sight seeing and such. It was mainly soaking up the sun and caprinhas (to a fairly sensible level...you know me!) and an amazing boat tour on our final day there, whereby, I managed to learn the proper swimming technique thanks to my amazing girlfriend! :D

After the group left us, we spent a few more days in Rio, which was brilliant. A wonderful capital and equally wonderful people. Brazilians throughout our tour of the country never failed to be polite and brilliant people. If this kindness was spread to all countries around the world, then we would simply be in such a better world. Hats off to you guys...simply the best! We saw the Cristo Redentor (Christ The Redeemer) which is one of the most inspirational statues on this planet, religious or not. Although, perhaps controversially, myself and my girlfriend agreed the sight of the city below us was easily the main spectacle. Such a beautifully crafted place. Talking about beautifully crafted....Copacabana beach....it's just as sexy and suave as most travellers say.

Our final day was incredibly special, with the tour of the favelas. Let's just say....your mouth will be wide open the whole time...even if it means collecting millions of mossies in your gob! Misleading is definitely the word.

Overall, It was a great trip with a lot of amazing adventures. This time was more interesting as I had someone to share it with. We tested each other at times but overall, like I said, it's about the experiences and how we deal with them. I've definitely learnt and seen a lifetime of things in these two countries...and it only took 3 weeks!

I've been waiting for a trip like this again for almost a year and a half! Most people who love backpacking would say the same. No offence to home but when you get too familiar and comfortable sometimes, it just doesn't strike a chord!

It's an amazing feeling. One that you can't quite quantify but remember so vividly, that its engraved in your mind like a easy-process photo album. It's stored forever in your memory and can't ever be wiped (unless you get smacked around the head enough or fall head first somewhere..."ouch" doesn't quite cut it!). This time it'll be different though, I'll have someone else to share these great times with, and hopefully have just that one person that you can relive the good times with.

The feeling.

It's undescribable. It's like excitement at every stage. Not quite like a big rollercoaster ride (for me anyway!) but just that amazing feeling of having that large backpack slung onto your back, struggling until it just slides down your arms, jostling the heavy bugger into place. The feeling of having your flip flops on and feeling the heat on the end of your toes as you're walking down the road, at an angle because at the same time you're fixing your eyes carefully into the Lonely Planet as you figure out where the hell your hostel is!

Every day is new. It's different. It's magic. It's pure enthusiasm and love. It's all part of the backpacking game and it's all that you need to escape every day life.

You understand why columbus made his voyages of discovery. He wanted to see what was outside the box. To see what the world had to offer him. Whether there was a world at all. He put his neck on the line and hedged his bet. An adventure into the unknown (i'm hoping that's not a Star Trek quote! The movie was good though, I'll give you that). How many people would have told him that he was a fool to believe in such things and that he was crazy. I'm sure many. But then when you listen to your heart, it can lead to amazing things.

So here we go again, but that's not a tired one. I'll never be tired of being backpack-happy. EVER!